Once our Chinese visas came through, we headed for Pokhara, the gateway to the Himalayas and required stop for any self respecting backpacker in Nepal. Although Lakeside is similar to Kathmandu’s Thamel district, you can quickly see why people come here in droves. First of all, it is way more chilled out – with practically no touts, a more relaxed attitude and ample space to feel comfortable. Second, it is located on the shores of beautiful Lake Fewa, with views of far away mountain villages, island monasteries and amazing sunsets. Last, and most important, when the clouds clear and sun shines, you are surrounded by the biggest fuck off mountain range you have ever seen, the Annapurnas.
In Pokhara, you’ll have your choice of any adventure activities from paragliding, kayaking, mountain biking and canyoning. We did none of these things. Our visit is in the midst of monsoon season, and the cloudy skies, muggy heat and daily downpours combine to make many outdoor activities less than ideal. However, with barely any tourists around and a less frenetic pace, you get more time to know the locals and other travelers. We hooked up with several European university students on summer break, some of whom were working in a nearby rafting shop owned by a Canadian/Nepalese couple. When I say “working”, I mean playing Jenga and cards most of the day since there is little work in the off-season and plenty of time to shoot the shit. I even got to feel useful for the first time in months by helping to set up some of the office’s computers. After spending a little time in Pokhara and hanging out with its locals, I am more than a little tempted to settle here myself.
The off-season allows lots of time for observation. There seems to be a disproportionate number of women traveling in Nepal solo, no doubt due to the safe and harassment-free atmosphere. It also appears as though a significant amount of these women are meeting and really getting to “know” the local dudes. A common sight is a Nepalese guy cruising by on his motor bike with some blond British chick clutching onto his waist. To be fair, the Nepalese people are strikingly good-looking. With the addition of their friendly, happy and honest demeanor, it’s no surprise western women get pulled in. Sorry fellas but you’re outta luck – the prominence of prostitution and conservative culture makes meeting nice girls quite difficult.
Waking up every morning at 5am to see if the clouds had parted to get a glimpse of the mountains (they didn’t) was enough. Against a lot of advice, we’re doing the one thing we came to Nepal for – trekking the Himalayas. Despite stories of bountiful leeches and days with no break in the thick clouds, we are taking the risk. Because coming to Nepal and not seeing any mountains would be like going to Vegas and not sleeping with any hookers. Unacceptable.
F’in A! Get them mountains!!
“I even got to feel useful for the first time in months by helping to set up some of the office’s computers.”
But you’ve been useful the whole time you’ve been traveling , td! Don’t you realize you provide entertainment to office workers trolling their RSS feeds to see what’s new? Have fun in the mountains, both of you!